Six Natural Hot Springs By A Motorcycle Rider

Motorcyclists are a bunch of sore, so soaking in hot springs during our holidays are practically a medical necessity.

We riders are a bunch of sore, so soaking in hot springs during our holidays are practically a medical necessity. To help motorcyclists visiting the geothermal State of Idaho, I planned a three-day trip to try a couple of mineral pools and report back on their quality. I pickle me in the name of responsible journalism.

Given that Idaho has more than 100 hot springs, it was easy to find six developed and underdeveloped them to visit for a day trip in Boise. Four of them are on public land, so sitting in them are free. I think that, um, refreshing.

As an extra benefit riders, are the roads to these six mountainous and exciting. So is the subsequent walk sometimes. Try one, I crawled up and down a steep dirt path (skirting the Poison Ivy) on my motorcycle boots and then, sans boots, waded along a frigid river. Fortunately there were no nudists in the pool, which stumbled over them is another danger of this task.

My guide was Marjorie Gersh-Young's book, Hot Springs and Hot Pools of the Northwest giving directions (including GPS coordinates) to the most famous hot springs in Idaho and surrounding states. Talk about prune fur-author and her friends regularly soaking in hundreds of U.S. heat pools to keep the book updated.

I jumped on my Honda Transalp Lynn and my husband with me on his Yamaha TDM. We sat down in early July with a towel tied to our track. Mercury thermometer was blow at 100 degrees F. when we left the city. To report authoritatively on every spring, I had to sit in them. When the air is that warm water temps are even hotter, it's a real butt-burner.

North of Challis

> From Boise we planned to ride to Challis, about 190 miles northeast. The route includes two national scenic tangent-the Ponderosa Pine and Salmon River. I wanted to visit the three hot springs along the way: Kirkham and Bonneville on U.S. 21, and Challis, who is in a camp near the intersection of U.S. 93 and 75th ID

Any good tour starts with breakfast, and before leaving Boise we stopped for a hearty one at the Trolley House, a restaurant in what was the last stop on the old Boise trolley-car line. From there, we are aiming towards the east, picking up ID 21 just before it passes the Diversion Dam, built in 1909 to provide water from the Boise River to irrigate the fertile valley and its famous Idaho potatoes.

This highway winds around the 340-foot-high dam that holds back Lucky Peak Reservoir, the largest river basin in these parts, and then becomes curved. It is now Ponderosa Pine Scenic byway, which is a favorite of local motorcyclists to its hairpins and switchbacks between Idaho City and Lowman, and then over Mores Creek summit (6,118 m) and Banner Ridge Summit (7,056 feet).

It is worthwhile to tour the historic structures in Idaho City, which was the largest city in the Northwest after gold was discovered nearby in 1862. The city was completely lawless, local lore has it that only 28 former residents (out of 200) who died of natural causes are buried in the cemetery first.

Kirkham Hot Springs

Some 38 miles north of Idaho City, we went on our first day of immersion. Kirkham Hot Springs sits on the banks of the southern branch of the Payette River four miles from Lowman. From the freeway, you can see the steam rising.

Local built more pools to catch the hot water trickling out of the vertical cracks along the riverbanks. The water leaving the soil at about 120 degrees F. and cools while flowing into the pools. Some are hotter than others, and in one there is a waterfall. Swimwear is required and it costs $ 3 to park, while soaking (fee is waived if you live in the adjacent campsite).

Kirkham offers great scenery and atmosphere and is relatively safe because it is visible from the road. I give it a "soaker score" at 8 (on a scale of one to 10).

Bonneville Hot Springs

All this research made us hungry, so we refueled our stomachs on Sourdough Lodge a few miles north of Kirkham. Then it was on to Bonneville Hot Springs is located near the Bonneville Campground 19 miles north of Lowman. It is popular on weekends, and I was curious to know why.

To find the place, look for signs of 21, which says Bonneville Campground. After turning in, we followed a dirt road through the campsite and parked in a lot beside a path to the springs.

While the signs say it's a 1/4-mile time, it seemed longer in our riding clothes. It is semi-late, and I could not see a soul, which made me a little nervous. Still, surrounded by forest and beside a stream, the option of volunteering made pools are nice. Swimsuits are optional, Ms. Gersh-Young notes in his book. I kept my suit on.

Bonneville has great ambiance, but the springs are isolated. If you visit, take a buddy for safety reasons. Soaker score: 7

Challis Hot Springs

We continued north on 21, and soon the Sawtooth Mountains emerged. Rugged and high, they are like a small version of Grand Teton. Snow remained at their peak, sometime in July. We gassed up in Stanley, a crossroads where three national scenic tangential meet: the Ponderosa Pine, the Sawtooth and Salmon River.

Challis is 55 miles north on ID-75-the Salmon River byway. Main road offers sweeping curves as it hugs the river to Challis, and we took full advantage of them. On U.S. 93 is just 4.5 miles south of Hot Springs Road, which dead ends at Challis Hot Springs and Campground.

The springs were developed in the 1880s to serve the gold miners in central Idaho, Bob and Lorna Hammond is the fourth generation of family members to own it. We camped, rode two up for dinner at the Village Inn in Challis and returned to test the outdoor hot pool, which cools to a comfortable 100 degrees F. when artesian water connect cold water drained off the River. We soaked and chatted, and before we knew what it was 10, and the staff were telling us it was closing time. That is what I call being relaxed.

An adult day pass here is $ 5.50, while overnight camping including use of the pool for two people costs $ 19.50. Changing rooms and shower facilities are provided. Living on resort's bed-and-breakfast inn is a second night option. My only complaint is that the high fence around the pool obscures the view. Soaker score: 9

Pine Flats Hot Springs

The next day we be retraced our steps back to Lowman and follow signs west to the banks of what is called the Bank-to-Lowman Road (it is also called the Wildlife Canyon Scenic byway). I wanted to visit the natural springs near Pine Flats Campground a few miles west of Lowman. The waters come out of a hill above Payette River, not far from the campsite.

The setting is spectacular, but getting there can be a challenge. I followed a path from the campsite to a rock and sandbank on the river, very aware of the poisonous "leaves of three" which is spreading around here. When the river is low, it is a short walk along the bar in the spring. The pool is within easy distance of climbing over the bar.

If Payette is not slowed, the bathers wade in shallow river water to about 15 feet. Ooo-wee, that water is cold! My legs hurt after just a few seconds in the cold river.

But the trip is worth it. A waterfall cascades at 104 degrees F. in the pool, and you can suck luxuriantly while watching kayakers and river rafters drifting in the current below. And it's all free, except for $ 3 parking fee. Soaker score: 8

Gold Fork Hot Springs

With the thermometer rises, we hurried west to the banks and turned north on U.S. 55 against Donnelly. There is no shortage of good nature in this way, even a national byway, the Payette River. The forest grows on the road and together, the northern branch of the Payette River plunges southwards over large boulders.

Our destination was the Gold Fork Hot Springs, southeast of Donnelly. We turned east at Plant Lane and followed the blue and white signs to guide us 6.5 miles on hard-packed gravel roads. Middle of the forest, we spied an incongruous group of umbrellas and knew we had taken place.

After a messy local hangout, Gold board is now a top-notch private destination, which boasts attractive pools, a waterfall and changing rooms. As the late afternoon sun cast long shadows, we slid into the mineral-rich water, starting with the biggest and hottest pool and move to smaller river-rock-lined pools below. For us riders, life was really good.

With umbrellas provide sun protection, you can laze in the sun loungers between dips. Admission is $ 8 for adults. No camping and no credit cards. Soaker score: 10

Molly's Tubs

I had one more common to go: Molly's Tubs just east of Cascade near Warm Lake. We had spent the night at the Super 8 in McCall, a rider-friendly place that serves a good free breakfast. In the morning, rode cooler temperatures south of 55 was a great relief. Just before Cascade, we followed the Forest Service 22 East to 474th FS Molly's Tubs is 1.5 miles on the right, during a withdrawal. If you can not find them, stop and ask someone.

That's what we did and soon we were staring at a strange collection of old cast iron bathtub resting on the bottom of a steep bank on the South Fork of the Salmon River. Using a hose, bathers fill them with hot water from the spring and then add cool river water to produce the perfect soaking temperature.

I have to thank a certain rider friend to pull the jars years ago, and then bring them back after the Forest Service drove them out. Bring a tub stopper and a bucket, fill the bathtub and then sit back and enjoy the sound of river. This site receiving high marks for atmosphere and funkiness. Soaker score: 6

You can not beat Idaho's hot springs for their beautiful settings and absurdly low admission fees, if any. My hard research was done, and boy, I had a little dressing myself to you, dear rider. Let me know when you want me to do it again.

For more information: Hot Springs and Hot Pools of the Northwest, Marjorie Gersh-Young, Aqua Thermal Press, www.hotpools.com. Campers either Bonneville, Pine Flats or Kirkham can get a free pass to park on the other campsites from the camp host.