
They had just arrived at the airport in Tulsa Gutierrez, Chiapas , and Mexico half hours ago. Now you are on a road snaking up the road 2500 meters, on the way to San Cristobel de lass Cases, home to the Zapatistas and the central meeting place for local indigenous groups who Chambliss. On your right you can see the world falls away when you get closer to the clouds. This is your first time here. You've read the travel guides, and searched the internet for things to do. Wherever you so you ran across the same thing, Palanquin, Camilla, Lagos de Montebello. But you want something different. You want to see the real state of Chiapas , and visit places that are not filled with tour groups. As you look at the sky, you see two green stripes. As you focus on them, you realize that it is actually a pair of parakeets flying towards an unknown destination. "Where did they come from?" They wonder....
Cima de Cotters
Located 1.5 hours outside Tulsa Gutierrez (take the bus service, leaves of the Plaza de Marimba), the Camorras de Cyma (parakeets), is a 180 meter deep sink hole. While the area around the area tends to be dry during the summer, the bottom of this sink hole is a tropical jungle that is still humid all year round. But the biggest attraction of this location are the thousands of parakeets that call this sinkhole homes. For the adventurous, a tour offered daily at 5:00 to descend halfway down the sinkhole, and see the thousands of parakeets wake up and rise up in unison out of there jungle home. Facilities include a hotel, camp grounds and a restaurant overlooking the sinkhole. Proceeds from the spot to go to maintain the natural habitat camorras.
.. The clouds part and you find yourself looking at a valley surrounded by green mountains. In the middle of this valley you see signs of life. San Cristobel de lass Cases. You can already discern the churches of San Cristobel and Guadalupe on the respective hills beyond the city. It must have rained recently, because you see the puddle of water the whole way. You believe in yourself ", they almost look like lakes" ...
Lagos de Colon
Lagos de Colon is located 4 hours south of San Cristobel de lass Cases. Take a shuttle bus from San Cristobel to Comitia and then transfer to a bus that goes to Lagos de Colon. This string of lakes known to be smooth glassy surfaces. A popular weekend spot for local Mexicans, these beautiful lakes are perfect for swimming and relaxing days away. Follow the path away from the main lake area, and you will find beautiful waterfalls, and to continue along this path and you will find a small set of newly discovered Mayan ruins. Facilities include a guest house, free camping area, 3 small family restaurants, and within days there are a few small vendors selling food as fried plantains and fresh fruit.
.. The taxi driver turns off the main road at Ave. Insurgents. You have just reached the historic center of San Cristobel. Colonial buildings surround you. As you drive you pass an incredible potpourri of humanity. Europeans, American, Asian, Mexican and many indigenous groups. As you try to take it all in, your thoughts are interrupted by a humming sound. It is your stomach. You discover you have not eaten since breakfast, 10 hours ago. "Where can we get a bite to eat?" Who knows ...
Comitia
Just 1 hour south of San Cristobel is the city Comitia. Most tourists only pass through the outskirts of this city on their way to Lagos de Montebello or Chiffon. They miss. From the bus station take a short taxi ride (or walk in 15 minutes) to the beautiful historic center. The central Ocala is untouched, and is filled with art and sculptures from around the world. The plants and flowers are always in bloom and the weather is always perfect. The main attraction of Comitia is that most local Cheapness (people from Chiapas ), acknowledges that it has the best food in the state. Restaurants on the Plaza is tasty, but seem to be slightly more expensive. If you want the best deal simply walk 1-2 blocks away from the Ocala in any direction and find a local restaurant.
.. You fight down growing feeling of hunger. First things first. You have to find a hotel. Fortunately there seems to be many on every street corner in San Cristobel. You ask the taxi driver to drop you off in front of one that looks nice and seems to fit your budget. You pay your ticket and get your bags out of the tribe, but as you turn to enter the hotel, you find you can not pass. You are surrounded by dozens of indigenous women and children to say "comprame".You do not speak Spanish, but it is not hard to figure out that they want you to buy one of the multi-colored bracelets, belts or Sub-commandant Marcos dolls. "Where have they all come from?" you ask ...
San Juan del Rio
The small village of San Juan del Rio is not on any map. You have to take a collective (local public transport) to Cancun and then take a local taxi (probably the back of a pickup) to the entrance to this village. From this gate you have to walk 1.5 hours to get to the village. The village has no roads or electricity. The city of 500 people survives by growing coffee. It is a perfect place to see how life is for most Chapanecos. Has traditional food prepared over an open fire. Spend some time relaxing in a Mayan steam bath, and then go down to the local river, and have a swim. Foreigners are so rare here that the children at the river probably would point and stare in wonder any outsiders who show up. You have to arrange a trip with one of the local villagers to come here. Money from these tours goes to the village fund to build a road.
.. You have fought your way through the crowd that surrounded you out. You are now the proud owner of 5 colorful bracelets and a clay figure that looks like a turtle. You ask if there are rooms available. In broken English girl at the front desk says "Yes", and give you a list of prices. Prices were reasonable. As receptionist prepares paperwork you scan tour pamphlets placed at the front desk. There are hundreds, each selling trips to the same places. Then one catches your eye. One is not polished or professional as the other; it is black and white with nothing but a pyramid on the front. "Where is Toning?" you ask the receptionist ...
Toning
Toning is 3 hours from San Cristobel. Take a bus to Oozing, and then get a taxi, or collectively toning. Toning is located in the middle of an open plain. Standing on its highest level, you can see for miles and miles in all directions. Getting a tour guide is highly recommended. The guide will lead you through the pitch black maze of the shaman's death, and show you how the ancient Maya had designed the rooms to have natural air conditioning. A little known fact is that Toning actually responsible for the decrease in Palanquin (his famous cousin to the west).Museum without ruins is small but worth a visit. Bring a large bottle of water, since there is very little shade during your turn and you will get thirsty.
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